I went into the Beer Depot yesterday after finishing up all official ties to the University of Michigan to get a Celebration Beer. I noticed this line of Artisan Ales in 750 ml bottles, and selected the Golden Ale. Then, noticing that the homebrew specialist was working that day, I asked him whether he thought it would be worthy of the occasion. He said that it was a decent beer, but warned me that it was a bit sour. I did not realize this, but "oak barrel aged" is synonymous with "tart", because souring infections from certain bacteria are encouraged in this process. One of my first tastings on this blog was another of Jolly Pumpkin's offerings, Bam Biere, and I complained about the tartness. Perhaps what bothered me the most was that no mention was made of the tartness in the beer description on the bottle.
Anyway, he got busy with another customer and I wandered back to the Jolly Pumpkin section. I read each label for the oak-aged warning, and then cast my eyes on this one: "A rich brown ale inspired by the enigmatic monastic brews of Belgium, and the mysterious mist-shrouded jungles of the tropics. Brewed with real cacao and spiced with cinnamon and sweet orange peel for a seasonal delight. A brew to be sipped, savored, and enjoyed." There was no mention of oak barrel aging, but I knew that I was taking a chance anyway.
So it poured a clear, medium dark brown with a bit of amber. It smelled clean and rather spicy. The first sip immediately revealed the sour note. However, knowledge can often tip the balance with something like tasting. I was much more patient than I might have been had I not understood that the sourness was intentional. I took my time, getting used to the new, and the spicy mixture of cinnamon, chocolate, and orange, along with the middling amount of carbonation began to scrub against the increasingly faint backdrop of watery wine. About a fourth of the way into my glass, I realized that I really liked this beer. The malt sugar is still there, but the bacterial enzymes convert a portion to the sour form that initially dominates. I'm not sure, however, how much I would like this without the adjuncts (for example, their Golden Ale, or Bam Biere). But this brew convinces me that the folks at Jolly Pumpkin know what the hell they're doing, and I'll definitely be seeking out more of their beers.
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